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Mineral Oil

Discussion in 'Poker Chip Care' started by GameShaman, Jan 29, 2012.

  1. UW85

    UW85 Chipaholic
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    Yup -- just simulates hours of time in the hands of people & their natural body oil rubs off on them. That's what I've heard anyway. It does make a HUGE difference in color for many chips. Others not so much.

    For example -- see if you can spot which chips have been oiled!
    :)

    [​IMG]
     
    #41
  2. rtmunro

    rtmunro Well-Known Member

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    ..think of it having the same effect as applying oil to an old baseball mitt.

    Below is an extreme example. On the left are oxy-cleaned & completely dried out. On the right, just-oiled, not yet wiped down.

    [​IMG]
     
    #42
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2012
  3. EmptyPocs

    EmptyPocs all chips, no cash
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    #43
  4. bmontana33

    bmontana33 Well-Known Member

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    I know some chips take oil better than others. Has anyone oiled their 8v's or edgespot clays from pgi? If so, how much difference did it make? And do you have any before/after pics. Or is it not recommended for these chips?
     
    #44
  5. spikeithard

    spikeithard Well-Known Member
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    thanks for the info about the china clays doing it this way... have to try it.. what brand or kind of oil did you use on the pharaohs?

    and also you said you had about 10 chips that needed label re-positioning? you oiled them by hand carefully? didnt know the labels can be 'repositioned'??
     
    #45
  6. JM

    JM Well-Known Member
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    the ONLY kind of oil you use on chips is MINERAL oil. The brand doesn't matter, its all the same.
     
    #46
  7. BGinGA

    BGinGA Banned

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    China clay chips have adhesive-backed labels that can be carefully lifted off and re-positioned if not centered properly (the blunt edge of an x-acto knife/tool works well to carefully lift up the label edge). High-end clay chips (Paulson, ASM, TRK, BCC) have inlays (not labels) that are actually pressed into the chip material itself with heat and high pressure, and typically cannot be removed without damaging both the inlay and the chip.

    I just checked my mineral oil bottle; it's a generic brand with no company name (afaik, all mineral oil is exactly the same). Don't recall where I got it, but I'd suspect that it was either WalMart or Walgreens, or maybe a CVS-type drugstore. Could even have been a supermarket like Kroger's or Publics. Typically sold as a lubricant/laxative. Baby oil is basically the same thing, although more expensive and with a fragrance.

    I've oiled thousands of chips using that bottle, and you can't even tell any is missing. It will last me a lifetime, I'm sure.
     
    #47
  8. spikeithard

    spikeithard Well-Known Member
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    great thanks. I will try the shake and bake method tomorrow. just a small amount on a
    piece of paper towel? seems like it would saturate the chips much.. I thought you would have to
    substantially wet the towel with oil to make an impact on the chips from shaking them around.

    I hope I get the chalkiness and smell out of them and bonus if they are more radiant afterwards!
     
    #48
  9. spikeithard

    spikeithard Well-Known Member
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    just did the shake and bake approach. seemed to be easy. did 650 in about 20 minutes.

    I have layed them out on paper towel to dry.. is 1 coat all I need or tomorrow do it again for
    second coat? thoughts? also while they are all slimy is it best to just let them air dry or best to wipe them off?
    [​IMG]
     
    #49
  10. spikeithard

    spikeithard Well-Known Member
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    do any of you recommend a 2nd coating the following day? give it 24 hours for the
    first 'shake and bake' method to set in and then do it again?
     
    #50
  11. JM

    JM Well-Known Member
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    No, a little oil goes a very long way
     
    #51
  12. spikeithard

    spikeithard Well-Known Member
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    the only reason I asked because it seems like the pharaohs will go back to the chalky dry look after a bit. I thought a 2nd coat would 'seal the deal' so to speak.
     
    #52
  13. mindaramblin

    mindaramblin Well-Known Member

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    Let them sit for a day or so, flipping them somewhere in the middle of that timeline. That has seemed to be the best method for me, ensuring that the chips retain their oiled-like state. Just make sure and wipe them all down THOROUGHLY when they're ready, other wise you'll end up with chips that stick together.
     
    #53
  14. spikeithard

    spikeithard Well-Known Member
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    what do you mean wipe them down when they are ready? after the day or so drying wipe em all down with a dry rag? then repeat process?

    I used the 'shae and bake' method. got them all nice and slimy.
     
    #54
  15. mindaramblin

    mindaramblin Well-Known Member

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    No. You don't need to do two coats of oil. Let them dry for 24 hours, flipping them sometime in the middle. Then take them all and wipe them down one by one until they're completely dry.
     
    #55
  16. spikeithard

    spikeithard Well-Known Member
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    they came out looking pretty narley. Very sharp!


    [​IMG]

    not bad quality for a cell phone eh?
     
    #56
  17. DJEnD

    DJEnD Member

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    Another 3 year old bump!

    How much do I have to wipe off before let it air dry? Does it still have the wet-oil look on it before I let it dry or do I have to do a complete thorough wipedown before the drying process starts?
     
    #57
  18. abby99

    abby99 Admin / Chip Magpie
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    Use just a tiny bit of oil. You should be able to oil 1000 chips with maybe a teaspoon of oil total. Even with a tiny amount, wipe them down with a clean cloth before letting them air dry.

    If oiled chips revert to a dry chalky look a few weeks after being oiled, it suggests to me that they didn't absorb the oil in the first place, and that oiling them again and again won't make a long-term difference. If chips aren't absorbent, oil just sits on the surface.
     
    #58

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