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Old 07-07-2005, 01:41 AM
d_p d_p is offline
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My custom poker table... DAY 1: PLANNING AND CUTTING THINGS

This is my web diary (dare I say "blog"?) of my forays into making my own poker table. I thought it would be fun to share with others. Maybe it will provide a little inspiration.

THE PROBLEM:
I want to host poker tournaments at my home. However I can not really accomodate more than 10 people and the table I would use for that is really not ideal when there are fewer than 8 people. Plus, it's our really nice dining room table so there's that to consider as well. I have the room for more people, it's just a matter of providing a place to play other than the big stuffed ottoman.

So, I looked at the Trademark folding octagon portable table top. It's cheap, I could afford two or three of them and there you go. Problem solved, right? Well... those chip trays with the integrated "suggested drink location device" look like trouble waiting to happen. Put that thing on a wobbly card table and I can just see big ol' brown blotches of dried Diet Pepsi all over our nice light-beige carpet. (Not to mention all over my new ASM Group Buy chips!) Hmm... OK maybe something better is needed.

So, I looked at a nicer Trademark table, but it just doesn't do it for me. It's a tad more expensive and it does not look like a good value. I think it would last about as long as the folding top above but it's several times the investment of cash.

I don't want an oval table. Takes too much room to setup and store and for some its a strain to look across the table at the cards. I also don't like how you really can't see the people sitting next to you if you are on one of the long ends.

So, what's a guy to do?

THE SOLUTION (i hope):
Build my own table.

I decided two things right from the get-go:

1) It has to be an octagon.

2) It has to be cheap, simple and upgradable.

I explained #1 above. For #2, cheap is self-explanatory. I don't want to spend even two days wages on a table. Simple... I don't want to spend a month building this thing or buy new tools to do it. I want it to be portable and just sit on my card table but be more stable than a fold-out top with cheapo "felt". Simple also because I want my 9-1/2 year-old son to help with the project. Upgradable? Yes, I want to be able to add a raceway at a later date if I get the hankering to do so. I also want to be able to add banquet table legs to it to make it a complete package. Also, keeping with the cheap theme, upgradable allows me to decide if stage 1 actually works or not without investing in the whole thing in one sh-bang. Also, I want to be able to air-brush a backgammon layout into the surface of suitable size to use poker chips for the pips. I could even do four of them, at opposite corners and have four games going at once. Or, a backgammom layout in one corner and a chess/checkers board at the opposite corner. Neat idea, eh? Plus, I think it would just look kind of unique, you know?

Ok, so where do I start? Well, I started at www.HomePokerTourney.com There is a section there all about building your own table. I browsed through that gathering information and found two very important items that got me moving down the right path...

1) Where to get the cloth and padding.

2) How to lay out the octagon shape.

#1 turned out to be Poker Supplies Ltd. www.pokersuppliesltd.com They had a foam/speed-cloth combo deal that saved me some money from buying it seperately. They were easy to deal with and Len actually called me to check what I was planning on doing so that he could be sure that what I ordered would work. Cloth, foam and adhesive cost me about $61 shipped FedEx. It should be here in a few days, hopefully before the weekend. (Fingers crossed).

The octagon shape... how on earth was I going to figure that out?!? Well, I wasn't really too stressed about it (I do have a BS degree in Mathematics after all), but I did find a website that made things REALLY easy. It's a calculator that figures out all your measurements for you! if you are even halfway thinking about doing something like this then do yourself a HUGE favor and go here...
http://www.members.cox.net/ultimate_...alculator.html

OK, so I've psyched myself up and I'm commited. Let's do this thing! I went to Home Despot (ugh, what an adventure that was) and got myself a 4x4x3/4 piece of plywood, some screws, a 2x2x8 stick of wood, a new blade for my circular saw and a utility knife (since I somehow misplaced mine.) What else? Oh, we tried to find someone to help us with new countertops for our kitchen. We didn't. Anyways, it cost me about $55 for all that, but the actual materials (less blade, knife, extra screws) were only about $30, probably less than that actually. The lines were agonizingly long so I ventured over to the self-checkout. It only worked in Spanish. *sigh*... count to ten my children are watching... But God works in mysterious ways and there was actually a helpful employee who translated for me and got me checked-out. That was a surprise... an employee... a HELPFUL employee... that I did not have to search for... at Home Despot... go figure.

Now for the fun part... I get to cut things, drill holes and screw it all together!

continued next post...
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Old 07-07-2005, 01:53 AM
d_p d_p is offline
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STEP 1: MEASURE TWICE, CUT TWICE TO MAKE THE OCTAGON
My son helped me measure out my cutting lines. The nice thing about buying a 4x4 sheet of plywood is all that I have to do is cut off the four corners and my octagon is DONE baby, yeah! Anyways, it looked something like this...



Well, not something like that, that's actually it. Oh by the way, yes that is a Jimmy Johnson Team Lowe's hat my son is wearing. PLEASE do not tell Jimmy we bought all that stuff at Home Despot! We don't want to jinx the great season he is having! But I digress...

Here's what my son did with the scraps...



STEP 2: LAY-OUT THE BOX THINGIE THAT WILL SEAT THE TABLE FIRMLY ON MY CARD TABLE
If there is a technical term for that box thingie I built, please let me know. That was easy to figure out... poker top is 48" wide, card table is 34" wide... (48-34)/2=7... 7 inches is how far the inside edge of my box thingie has to be from the edge of the table. I fudged-it about 1/8 of an inch less so there could be some wiggle-room. I pre-drilled mounting holes for my 2x2 box thingie frame (frame! that's it!) and screwed them in place with my son's help. I'll go back and sand around the screw heads and fill the holes on the top with putty before I glue on the foam, but I'm getting ahead of myself. I did not glue the thingie to the top because I want to be able to remove the thingie pieces down the road if I decide to put legs or a pedestal under the table.

Laying out the box frame thingie...



Testing the card table's fit inside my box thingie. Like a glove!



And here she is upright...



Notice my son apologizing to Jimmy for having spent a good amount of time and $50 at Home Despot.

And here is the indespensible tool that made it all come together so easily...



Not counting the time at Home Despot (can you tell I REALLY dislike Home Depot yet?) I spent about 90 minutes to get things to this point. That includes dragging out my tools and putting things away when I was done. Really, all I did was measure four lines, make four cuts to form the octagon, make three cuts for my box-frame-thingie, mark four lines for their position, drill 12 holes, screw twelve screws and that's about it. Not too shabby for a hot July evening in Central California.


TOOLS I USED TODAY:
Circular saw
Tape measure
Straightedge
Pencil
Electric drill
The Indespensible Tool
Air compressor - just to blow the sawdust into the front lawn.
I also used my new utility knife to cut-up some old boxes I had in the garage.

(What I would have done differently in next post...)
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Old 07-07-2005, 01:56 AM
d_p d_p is offline
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THINGS I WOULD HAVE DONE DIFFERENTLY ON DAY 1 NOW THAT I'VE DONE IT THIS WAY:

1) I would have used T-nuts to fasten my "box guides" to the underside of the table instead of screwing into them from the top. These are going to be covered by the padding (glued onto the surface) and then the felt. If I need to take the 2x2's off to install a pedestal or banquet table legs then I will have to figure out how to get them off without damaging anything. I guess a Dremel could work wonders here now that I think about it so maybe it's not that big of a deal.

2) I would have made two tops instead of just one.

3) I would not have gone to Home Despot. I would have driven 20 miles one-way to Lowe's. Probably would have taken less time.


COMING SOON...
DAY 2: FORAYS INTO FOAM AND FELT!
But that will have to wait until I actually GET the foam and the felt. Before I actually do this, I will borrow my Dad's router and ease all the edges of the octagon so the cloth will not tear and to generally soften-up the feel of the top a little. I'll include that in DAY 2 even though it will actually happen on like DAY 1-1/2 but that would be a little boring to do a whole write-up just for that.
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Old 07-07-2005, 12:03 PM
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Kalimba Kalimba is offline
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Very interesting, informative and entertaining post. Keep up the good work and keep us updated on the progress.

Sorry that in hindsight you found a couple of things you might do differently. Nice that you pointed them out for anyone else thinking of attempting a similar project.

One very minor thing that I noticed I might do differently: the plywood you selected looks like an "AC" plywood, meaning it has one good (sanded) side and one not-so-good side. From the images it appears that the "A" (good) side is the top and the "C" side is the bottom, which follows most people's natural instinct. However, you will eventually be covering the top with your padding and felt/speedcloth, so it doesn't matter what it looks like. Since the bottom won't be covered, perhaps it is better suited to have the sanded side of the plywood.
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Old 07-07-2005, 01:26 PM
d_p d_p is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalimba
One very minor thing that I noticed I might do differently: the plywood you selected looks like an "AC" plywood, meaning it has one good (sanded) side and one not-so-good side. From the images it appears that the "A" (good) side is the top and the "C" side is the bottom, which follows most people's natural instinct. However, you will eventually be covering the top with your padding and felt/speedcloth, so it doesn't matter what it looks like. Since the bottom won't be covered, perhaps it is better suited to have the sanded side of the plywood.
I thought about that, especially since I will be resting this on top of my card table with a vinyl top my first inclination was to have the sanded side down. But, there are voids in the C side and I was not sure if those could be felt underneath the foam/cloth layer so I left the smooth side up. I really don't know if I made the right decision or not.
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Old 07-07-2005, 01:56 PM
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Kalimba Kalimba is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d_p
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalimba
One very minor thing that I noticed I might do differently: the plywood you selected looks like an "AC" plywood, meaning it has one good (sanded) side and one not-so-good side. From the images it appears that the "A" (good) side is the top and the "C" side is the bottom, which follows most people's natural instinct. However, you will eventually be covering the top with your padding and felt/speedcloth, so it doesn't matter what it looks like. Since the bottom won't be covered, perhaps it is better suited to have the sanded side of the plywood.
I thought about that, especially since I will be resting this on top of my card table with a vinyl top my first inclination was to have the sanded side down. But, there are voids in the C side and I was not sure if those could be felt underneath the foam/cloth layer so I left the smooth side up. I really don't know if I made the right decision or not.
Sounds like you made the correct decision, then. The "C" side can indeed have some pretty nasty blemishes -- some probably bad enough to be detected through padding and felt. Maybe having the "A" side up is the best choice in this case.

Short of spending a lot of extra time filling voids with some sort of compound and then sanding it all down or paying a lot more money for cabinet-grade plywood, I think you made the best choice.
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Old 07-07-2005, 09:06 PM
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looking good so far, i would recommend you get the banquet legs though. i got the same card table when i started my first custom and figured it was way to unstable (remember your beige carpet ) the folding legs are great for less than $20. i could never find them at lowes though, HD has them, most of the time in the moulding section (aka millworks). and if you run into any problems, scott keens builders forum has all the info you could ever want. http://www.scottkeen.com/forum/ and if you order your fabric and foam online, use yourautotrim.com, you will not be sorry. i've built 15+ tables with stuff from them and the owner jason is awesome to deal with.
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