[shanghai_sparky]

Originally Posted by Capstone

Sparky, fantastic thread. I've looked at all the pics thrice.

few questions
...what size router bit are you using?
... is that a plunge router?
... have you considered using what will now be referred to as the "Wedge-Rack-Drawer-Rack" jig (WRDR-JIG) to produce (what you claimed to be easier to produce) long racks and then just cross cutting them to 20ct width for the 100ct racks?

It would seem that cutting with the grain length wise for a series of 2 and 3 row width boards and then cutting them to 20ct widths and then use the flat "sides" to hold a 2-row and 3-row section together to make a 100ct rake would go faster instead of the drill priss method. just a thought outside of the rack...er...box

Capstone

Jeez, everyone wants to get into my gig.

I bought the 1-5/8" bit online for $26: http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...s/bt_core.html

Looks like I will just have to make mine more ornate.

I thought about making the long grooves then chopping into 20 or 25 count lengths, but I didn't like the idea of gluing two pieces together.
I like the single piece of wood better. Getting wider stock (8") to do it this way is expensive.
I have a new idea that I will work on after I finish the next batch for Wedge. But I will make lots of those and post to sell before I disclose the details.

[Quads]

I bought the same bit from them as well.

Looking for a few different pieces of wood to start the project I have in mind.

[*acesandfaces*]

Originally Posted by Quads

I bought the same bit from them as well.

Looking for a few different pieces of wood to start the project I have in mind.

Same here...mine came in yesterday....Damn what a huge bit. Thank god I am able to change my collet to 1/2''.

[Capstone]

Thanks Sparky,

I'll never take my woodworking hobby mainstream, I am planning to build a Combo Bar/Cashiers Cage for my basement and wood love to include a pull out wooden drawer for chip in my design.

Capstone

Originally Posted by shanghai_sparky

Jeez, everyone wants to get into my gig.

I bought the 1-5/8" bit online for $26: http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...s/bt_core.html

Looks like I will just have to make mine more ornate.

I thought about making the long grooves then chopping into 20 or 25 count lengths, but I didn't like the idea of gluing two pieces together.
I like the single piece of wood better. Getting wider stock (8") to do it this way is expensive.
I have a new idea that I will work on after I finish the next batch for Wedge. But I will make lots of those and post to sell before I disclose the details.

[Quads]

Originally Posted by *acesandfaces*

Same here...mine came in yesterday....Damn what a huge bit. Thank god I am able to change my collet to 1/2''.

I'd be deathly afraid to spin anything that big without a 1/2" collet.

[*acesandfaces*]

Originally Posted by Quads

I'd be deathly afraid to spin anything that big without a 1/2" collet.

Amen bro....This will be the first time I've ever had to change the collect on my router. Never worked with a 1/2'' shank bit.

[Quads]

Just remember to take it nice and slow with the bit. Lots of passes to the depth you are looking for, never taking out more than 1/16th to an 1/8th of an inch of material in one pass.

I've done some prototypes with a forstner bit nad a drill press, so it will be fun to experiment with this.

[Billard]

Originally Posted by Quads

Just remember to take it nice and slow with the bit. Lots of passes to the depth you are looking for, never taking out more than 1/16th to an 1/8th of an inch of material in one pass.

I've done some prototypes with a forstner bit nad a drill press, so it will be fun to experiment with this.

That's a lesson I learned the hard way when using the 1-1/2" bit. Fortunately, I learned it on some scrap pieces. Slow, smooth, and steady.

A question, though, regarding the cuts. Is it better to clamp the wood and move the router by hand, or to use a router table and feed the wood? Does one method produce a more consistent result?

[shanghai_sparky]

Originally Posted by Billard

That's a lesson I learned the hard way when using the 1-1/2" bit. Fortunately, I learned it on some scrap pieces. Slow, smooth, and steady.
A question, though, regarding the cuts. Is it better to clamp the wood and move the router by hand, or to use a router table and feed the wood? Does one method produce a more consistent result?

I clamp mine to the table and move the router.
One would need a router table where the fence has a large range of motion for it to be useful. For my racks with 5 grooves, it needs to be about 10" away from the bit.
Besides, with a plunge router, I can make five or six passes on each groove to get the proper depth. That is not reasonably possible with a table mounted router.

[Quads]

That's really a great question. I honestly don't know the answer to it and or what the "Master Woodworker" would say.

Like Sparky said, you have some additional leverage with the plunge router. However with a router table, you can incorporate a feather board to keep your material close and tight to the cutting bit.

And who knows, it may end up being 6 ways 1/2 of 12 to 6 ways.