FINAL PICS BELOW OTHER UPDATES
Thanks to inspiration from acesandfaces and Wedge Rock (did you ever make yours?), I decided to make a box to hold my chips (Paulson JB 2005’s), cards, and other miscellaneous things like dealer buttons. The design is largely based on acesandfaces box, shown here
http://www.chiptalk.net/forum/poker-...built-one.html. The dimensions are approximately 15” x 12” x 12”. It will hold 600 chips and several sets of cards. I got most of my supplies on Monday, and I started building yesterday.

Here is most of my wood. The big sheet is a quarter sheet (2’ x 4’) of oak veneered ½” plywood from Home Depot. This will be to make the four sides of the box and the top shelf (for the cards). The six pieces of wood on the left are ½” x 2” x 24” oak. These will be used for the drawer faces and the top and bottom rims. The drawers will be similar to these:

I’m not sure what kind of wood I am going to be putting in the middle of the drawer face. It may be just a wood with a dark stain. The next two pieces of wood are ½” x 2” x 24” poplar. These are for the drawer slides I am making. The box is too small to use real sliders (at least that I could find), so I am making my own. The next piece is ¼” x 2” x 24” oak for the sides of the drawers, and then ¼” x 4” x 24” oak for the backs of the drawers.

This is a piece of cherry veneered paneling that I had extra from a kitchen remodel. I’m going to use it for the drawer bottoms and the bottom of the box.

Here is the oak plywood cut to size and mitered. The second picture is the dry fit for the four sides of the box.

This is the face of the box with holes cut out for drawers. The slots below each drawer are for the slides. The slot on the top is for the bottom of the shelf where the cards will be (refer to acesandfaces design if that doesn’t make sense). The bottom slot will have a piece of the cherry, just so the box has a bottom for rigidity. The grooves are cut in all four faces of the box.
I’m not sure how long this will take me to finish, but I will keep updating this post whenever I work on it.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
UPDATE: 7/05 (I guess it’s 7/06 now)
So I got to work on this more than I expected today. I cut out both the pieces for the “shelf” and the bottom, cut the pieces for the drawer slides and got it all glued together.

This is a picture of the top and bottom slid into the frame of the box. The second picture is a top view of the top compartment for cards and such.

These are going to be the slides for the drawers. They are just ½” pieces of poplar. If you look in an earlier picture you can see the grooves that are routered out for them.

This is the front and back pieces with the bottom, top, and two slides in place.

These are after I glued and clamped all the pieces together. Hopefully by morning it will have all dried well. Getting all the pieces to fit and still have the mitered cuts stay as flush as possible took a little wiggling and just playing with it. I am really glad with how it has come out so far.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
UPDATE: 7/13
I haven’t had a chance to work on this very much in the past week or so, but tonight I got the drawers mostly finished. The drawers are made to hold three chip racks (300 chips) each. Here are the pieces of the drawers:

The sides and fronts are oak, and the bottom and back are cherry veneered cabinet paneling. I attached it all by making a groove in the bottom of all the sides that the bottom goes into. The sides are long enough to cover the edges of the front and back pieces so that you can only see one piece from the side. Here are the two drawers being glued:
I used wood glue in the grooves and on the sides of the front and back, and small finishing nails on all four corners to hold the drawer together. The taller side (left side on the next picture) is the back. It’s taller so that it won’t come out of the box on it’s own if it is tipped (but it can be taken out if tilted the right direction). The front will have a larger face to go on the front of it.
Here is another picture with a rack inside of it. It is a closer fit than I had originally planned, but I like the tightness, so it won’t move around very much.
The other thing I did tonight was made the slides for the drawers, but I didn’t finish them. I cut the groove to fit over the slide that I already had put in place inside the box. Here is a picture of them on the slides, but not cut to length yet:
Here’s one more picture of the chips in the drawer:
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
UPDATE: 7/16
Finished some more of this last night and today. First, I got the slides cut to length and put into the bottom of the drawers:
Yesterday, I went to a store called Southern Lumber (not sure if it is a chain or not) to get wood for the drawer faces and the top. It has lots of exotic woods, some of which are pretty expensive, but it’s cool to see all the different kinds. For the drawer faces I wanted a strip of dark wood between two thicker strips of oak just to have some variety. First I got some Peruvian Walnut that looked nice, but then I saw a piece called Leopardwood. The name pretty much describes it. You can see it here, between two pieces of oak:
Here are the drawer faces before I glued and biscutted the pieces together.
The other thing I made yesterday was the top of the box. I wanted to make a similar look to Peterod’s inlays on his oak rail table, like these:
I didn’t really want to spend a whole lot to get that look, so I kind of faked it by using a few different veneers, which I then attached to the extra oak plywood I had from the box, so the inside will still be oak when the top is open. I attached the veneer with contact cement. I think it came out pretty nicely for the price.
The second picture is with the top just set on top of the box, it is not actually attached. It will have a rim of oak around the edges. The veneers are walnut on the top and bottom, mahogany on the sides, and cherry in the middle.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
UPDATE: 8/14
Well I haven’t updated this in a long time. I’ve been busy and out of town, but I have been slowly making progress on this. A lot of the time that I have spent on this was for small things that you can’t really see in pictures, like sanding and filling holes with wood filler, but there are several things I have done that are noticeable.
One of the big things I did was give the drawer faces a design with a router bit. It is a little more than just rounding over the edges (you can see the burns the router made that I had to sand off):
I also used the same router bit to make a border for the top of the box and the bottom. All the edge pieces are made of oak:
Here is a close up that you can see the detail of the router bit:
I glued the drawer face to the drawers and added the knob. I may or may not change the knobs:
And here are a couple pictures of the drawers in and the top on (but not attached):

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
UPDATE: 9/30
Well, today I was finally attaching the side handles, the last part of this project, when I realized I had never posted pictures after finishing the box, so here they are. I used a ZAR stain (“Provincial”) and Satin finish Varathane. I also used a few coats of the spray-on poly too. It’s pretty nice as far as being easy. Overall, I’m really happy with the end product. Thanks to everyone that had any suggestions. And here are the pics:
If you want to see all the pictures I have taken through this project, go here:
http://csatt.smugmug.com/gallery/1634267
kingskid0424