[jwdeane]

I created a thread a couple days ago about my upcoming endeavor into the Faux Clay Nation.

http://www.chiptalk.net/forum/poker-...-dye-them.html

I have read the majority of the threads here concerning the dye process and have picked up some good tips.

My question now is, through trial and error of my fellow CT'ers, what is the best, if any process for creating designs (read: edge spots) while dyeing FC's?

Is there a certain type of tape that can securely seal the dye from bleeding in?

I understand this is all new territory for most of us.

Here is what I have in mind for my 700 white FC's coming in a few days.



Comments?

[JessterCPA]

The tape route has had limited success. My guess is you need the super sticky stuff from the hardware store.

Personally, I want to try a wax or crayon route, but the hot water dye mixture may thwart that thought process.

Going to try it all tomorrow hoepfully. First day off in 14 weeks.

Jesse

[Colquhoun]

those chips look like they were dipped in dye using one of these:

Seriously, the contact from some form of tape would have to be REALLY good, or it would be a mess. Wax is used to mask out areas for fabric dyeing, but i figure the use of hot wax on chips would create an even GREATER mess.

[jwdeane]

I assumed there was no real good answer here.

I guess the most logical solution may be to find some super sticky tape, apply it, heat the tape edges and let it sit. This may create a strong enough seal to stop the bleeding.

This process would be extremely time consuming, but I think an FC with edge spots may be worth the effort.

[Captn_All_In]

I tried Masking tape and it was unsuccessful. I think the only way to truly get edgespots with the rit dye in a cold solution. I have no idea if rit works without heating it, but I don't know how else they could be accomplished. I don't think that mixing the dye solution with vinegar or peroxide is an option either.

I think the best bet would be a wax of some sort. I know that the clear crayon works on easter eggs and hot water, why wouldn't it work with the fauxs- maybe because the chips would have to sit longer in the coloring??...but couldn't you get around that by mixing the dye stronger so they wouldn't have to soak as long??

sorry I was thinking out loud there...

I would suggest going to a hardware store and looking for some premium type of heat resistant tape. Home Depot? Lowes? They must have something for this?

[Wedge Rock]

When I painted in watercolor, I used to mask areas that I wanted to stay white with rubber cement... When I was done, the rubber cement would just roll right off...

I would think you could mask off areas the width of a brush stroke... And the irregular shape would give you a real clay effect (i.e., not every edge spot would be exactly the same)...

[Captn_All_In]

Originally Posted by Wedge Rock

When I painted in watercolor, I used to mask areas that I wanted to stay white with rubber cement... When I was done, the rubber cement would just roll right off...

I would think you could mask off areas the width of a brush stroke... And the irregular shape would give you a real clay effect (i.e., not every edge spot would be exactly the same)...

Where have you been and why didn't you suggested this earlier???

You realize you could have sent this info via pm first so that I had time to purchase stock in a rubber cement company!!!!

How long do you think this stuff should dry before it takes a dip??

(now I need to find that genius picture!!!)

[jwdeane]

This is what I was hoping to happen in this thread, information sharing!

Do you think straight lines can be made with the rubber cement? If so, this could be exactly what I am looking for.

[Wedge Rock]

It doesn't take long to dry... You should be able to dip it within 30 seconds? Maybe less.

Most rubber cement comes with a brush attached to the lid. Unscrew it and paint on a layer. I think I would prefer the non-exact line of a hand brush rather than a perfect straight line. I suppose you could tape straight lines, then fill in the area with rubber cement, then pull back the tape. The result would be straight lines. But that's also a lotta work. I'm sure you could get close to straight lines witha steady hand.

Also, I think you could die a chip a light color, then put on your rubber cement edge spot covers, then dye it a dark color. You'd be left with light edge spots on a dark chip, instead of white edge spots on every chip...

[Stevo]

God help us all. This thread is awesome!