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07-14-2006, 12:20 PM
| | On the Bubble | | Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 159
Chips: 149 | | | Table Selection I have read and heard so much about how selecting the correct table contributes a considerable amount to how much can be won.
Can anyone give me an idea of how you choose tables? What do you watch for. Do you observe while playing or before sitting down?
Thanks for the advice.
Catfish. | 
07-14-2006, 12:40 PM
|  | World Series Final Table | | Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: TN
Posts: 2,446
Chips: 2,456 | | | Re: Table Selection If I'm going to play .25/.50 NL, I buy in for $20 at a table with comparative stacks. I don't want to sit down with a guy who has $93. I always fear getting pushed off hands with a money disadvantage. However, most of the guys you see with $93 at a .25/.50 game are scared to play $1/2. They most likely won a $45 pot with Q5 suited when they flopped a flush draw and drew out on pocket aces. I generally don't have the patience to scout tables, but then again I feel like I can play with anyone.
1)Consider your bankroll, if I take a bad beat early, will I rebuy or leave?
2)Always consider position, pick a seat that gives you an advantage.
Don't pick a seat beside the big stack. If he's aggressive he will lead out in front of you and take bluffs away from you. It's sometimes harder to play directly behind the leader, than in front. If you check-raise he's going to play you that much harder the rest of the game generally.
3-Also, consider the number of players. In 9-handed, you'll be playing far fewer hands. This can get boring fast. I like to pick 4-person tables, then they peak at 6. If you get a 6-person table, it could balloon to 9.
The main thing to observe, if you're scouting, is who bets draws---who reraises with big draws. Understanding how people play their draws is one of the most important things to observe in lower skill limits. Some people raise with flush draws, but surprisingly call or fold straight draws. One is 9 outs, an open-draw is 8 outs. It makes no sense to me, but it's how people play. At lower skill levels, people have a harder time disguising their betting patterns. They play top pair completely differently than a draw or a set. You can pick up strength and patterns in 10-20mins tops online. If you play advanced players, they play big hands the same as small hands and you struggle to read them.
If you're worried about your bankroll and your abilities, scout the table for 10mins and figure out how people play top pair and how they will play a draw. | 
07-14-2006, 12:52 PM
|  | World Series Final Table | | Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Santee, CA (San Diego) Age: 40
Posts: 2,599
Chips: 2,938 | | | Re: Table Selection I think the most important thing to consider is just paying attention no matter what table you sit at.
Play nothing less than pocket pairs over 9's, face connecters, etc when you first sit down.
Just watch the players for about an hour, or a few rotations of the button.
Make mental notes on what types of cards the players are pushing with when they get busted and have to show. What are the amounts of bets that are stealing the pots, or are getting called.
Once you get a feel for the "rythym" of the table and its players, then you will be far better prepared to tangle once the time comes. | 
07-14-2006, 04:56 PM
|  | World Series Champ | | Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,388
Chips: 111 | | | Re: Table Selection I like loose table where a lot of players see the flop. Either passive or agressive is ok. | 
10-18-2007, 12:09 PM
|  | Faux Clay Nation | | Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: British Columbia Age: 39
Posts: 372
Chips: 294 | | | Re: Table Selection I'd like to bump this thread to get some more opinions on table selection,specifically if one is NOT using pokertracker or the like.
Thanks! | 
10-18-2007, 12:28 PM
|  | Final Table | | Join Date: May 2007 Location: Cambridge, ON
Posts: 884
Chips: 5,643 | | | Re: Table Selection I always look for loose tables. Pot size doesn't really matter to me. In NL, definitely make sure your table doesn't have a couple big stacks.
I always tag my fish with a note and then go looking for them the next time i sit down. I also tag the good players and try to avoid them.
If the tables aren't good I don't sit down. If I find 5 good tables, I'll sit at them all because inevitably the fish bust and get replaced by sharks. A good table is only good while it lasts and sometimes that isn't very long. | 
10-18-2007, 12:40 PM
|  | In the Money | | Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: E--> Canada Age: 30
Posts: 357
Chips: 336 | | | Re: Table Selection Look for the table that has the highest % plr/flp. More players who are seeing flops = more ppl that are likely playing too many hands.
And ALWAY buy in full. You're immediately limiting what you can win if you but in less than the full amount (or largest stack) | 
10-18-2007, 12:52 PM
|  | In the Money | | Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: E--> Canada Age: 30
Posts: 357
Chips: 336 | | | Re: Table Selection Quote:
Originally Posted by _GUN_ I always fear getting pushed off hands with a money disadvantage. | Then you are playing scared and should buy in full and or play lower limits. You're only disadvantaging yourself by not buying in full. Quote:
Originally Posted by _GUN_ However, most of the guys you see with $93 at a .25/.50 game are scared to play $1/2. They most likely won a $45 pot with Q5 suited when they flopped a flush draw and drew out on pocket aces. | What information are you basing this on? It makes no sense to me. Quote:
Originally Posted by _GUN_ Don't pick a seat beside the big stack. If he's aggressive he will lead out in front of you and take bluffs away from you. It's sometimes harder to play directly behind the leader, than in front. | You want to have a seat directly to the left of the "leader" or big stack. He will always act before you, with the excepting of one hand per rotation. This is a definite advantage. | 
10-18-2007, 01:05 PM
|  | Big Stack | | Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,280
Chips: 2,331 | | | Re: Table Selection Quote:
Originally Posted by 200 Motels Look for the table that has the highest % plr/flp. More players who are seeing flops = more ppl that are likely playing too many hands.
And ALWAY buy in full. You're immediately limiting what you can win if you but in less than the full amount (or largest stack) | I agree. The first thing I look at is % of players seeing the flop. Then I look to see what their stacks are. I play .10/.25 pot-limit with a $25 max buy-in. If there are too many guys with $30 or more at the table, I'll look elsewhere. What I love is a table that has a high % players/flop and a few guys with stacks less than $10. This says to me that they are either losing, or not buying in big enough....mistakes either way.
When I find one that looks good, I sit away from the biggest stack and play tight, to identify the worst players at the table. The advice about paying attention is important. I make notes on the players and adjust my play based on theirs. I prefer to be the most aggressive at the table, and I'll move if I find others that are more aggressive than I am. | 
10-18-2007, 01:29 PM
|  | ChipTalk.net Article Writer | | Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Boston Age: 25
Posts: 2,261
Chips: 5,913 | | | Re: Table Selection a lot of misinformation in this thread.
two rules to table selection:
1) Seat selection is more important than table selection. A great table can be -EV if you have a bad seat. You want loose players on your right, tight players on your left. you want to be able to isolate the bad players or limp behind with good implied odds hands. And you want your raises to knock the tight players out preflop.
2) pick tables with high % of people seeing the flop and big pots, or low % of people seeing the flop and small pots. The former is good because you can play a patient game and win big pots, the latter is good because you can aggressively steal with position and run the game over.
table and seat selection should not be based on your perceptions of people's play based on their stack sizes, one hand you see, or how much their avatar annoys you. You also don't want to always have the big stack to your right, because if he is a tight aggressive player he's going to be isolating the loose poor players and shutting you out of a lot of pots.
also remember this: It is very very very very important to have LAGs (loose aggressive players) to your right. They will spew and play poorly when on your right and you can control the pot and isolate them with position. But if they are on your left they are a nightmare and very tough to handle.
edited: because i got left and right confused higher up in post. not the first time I've done that...  |  | | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | | | Display Modes | Linear Mode |
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