[wingsfan]

Well, the bug's just about biting me again to build a table. I built one last summer and it's worked just fine. But "fine" about covers it, and I'd like to shoot for something in the "nice" range this time around. I want something that will comfortably seat 8 and can squeeze 10 or 11 if we need to.

What I keep fighting with myself about, and need input from anyone on is the shape. I currently have a full 8' oval. I'm not doing this again. The people on the ends can't deal and it's generally just sort of a pain. So right now, I keep arguing with myself about a 4' x 6' oval or a round... not quite sure what size. If anyone has any other shape suggestion (although I'm not big on the octagon look), please throw it out there. So please, if you own, have played on or have any experience with a table that's not a full 8' oval, let me know the upsides, downsides, and your general impression of whether you like it or not. Thanks in advance, it will be a huge help.

[jldecarlo]

First, check scottkeen.com/forum

Second, my new table is 40"x88". It is 8" shorter in both directions than a standard 4'x8' table. It will comfortably fit 9, and 10 can squeeze in. I have not tried 11. It is still hard to deal from the ends. When evaluating table size, you need to calculate circumference. As I recall, 20" is a bare minimum per person, 22" is ok, and 24" is preferred. curves seat more people than straight sides. Again, check the scott keen forum.

Even if you go with an oval table, don't go 48" wide - 42" works just as well and only decreases circumference by about 6".

Good luck

L

[2_hotty]

I made a table using Junells plans. 8' with an oak racetrack. Even though it's a little hard to deal from the ends, everyone loves the table. I've had 10 people at it without issue. I would suggest going this route even though it's not that easy to deal from the ends. The positives outweigh the negatives by a ton.

Are you in SE MI by any chance?

[zerolux]

if you want a larger round table to fit more folks, you can get 5' x 5' sheets of pywood from cabinet suppliers, and then you can get 60" vinyl to cover the rail.

or do what my crew does, we use tourament director to random seat everyone, seat one is the middle of the table, they get the button, they deal the game. or when someone busts out, they can take over the dealing duties. if you can do it this way, you can make a nice oval.

if its your table, in your home, do what you want. if someone wants to *****, let them spend $250 on a table, $20 in carpet cleaner, and they can host the games.

[wingsfan]

LMAO @ the carpet cleaner remark.

To answer the location question, I'm in the Flint area. If you want to call that SE Mi, so be it. Depending on where they are, some people call it SE, some people call it Mid.

[Double Eagle]

I have built two 66" round tables. You can seat 10 people around them. I tried a 60" table and it was not big enough for 10 players. If you only play with 8, then a 60" will do fine. One of my friends built one that is 72" and it is too big.

I know a lot of people like the tradional casino style hold'em table. However, they were designed so the dealer can reach each player's position in order to pull in the cards and chips.

For the home game which is dealt by the players, I prefer a round table. It elimnates the problem of dealing from the ends of the traditional hold'em table.

[Spaceman Spiff]

I haven't been able to convince my crew to go to a setup where seats 1 & 6 deal the whole night. However, since I recovered my table with a much slicker material, end dealing has been 1000% easier. I don't think we've flipped a card from the ends in several weeks now. Just something else to consider if you can't get them to agree to a full time "dealing station"
Put me in the camp of those that just likes the ovals better. For one, I couldn't fit two round tables in my basement, but the oval just makes it a casino feel I guess.
My table is also about 42"x88". I cut the rail from one full length of the board and then sized the table itself down so the rail overlaps. I don't remember exactly, but about 4" off of each end sound about right. It'll fit 8 or 9 very comfortably. 10 will work and we've done 11 a few times with just a little bit of squeezing. I think 8 would probably be very tight on a 4'x6' oval.

[hachkc]

I think the optimal table for home use is probably going to be a round one especially if you play dealers choice. It should be around 60" in diameter.

I wanted to build a round table when I built my first table but I ended up going with a 45"x90" oval but these were the issues I thought about and opted for the easier solution, oval table:

- 5' x 5' x 3/4" plywood is harder to find and more expensive.

- Unless you are doing a racetrack/insert, 60" padding or table covering are harder to find.

- Rail Vinyl is very difficult to find. Can you actually use the 61" vinyl from YAT for a seamless rail? I would think not but I've heard it referenced before. More than likely, you would need a sectioned rail.

- More difficult to store.

Being that it was my first table, I opted to go the easier and cheaper route. Someday, I may get around to making a round table.

By the way, Flint is definitely mid-michigan. I'm in northern Oakland County which is what I consider the northern part of SE Michigan.

Good luck and let us know what you decide and do.

[2_hotty]

I see Flint as mid also. I'm in the north end of Warren. I asked your location because I figured if you were close, you could check out my table to help you decide if it would work for you. (which is actually in my dads shop in Sterling Heights)

That would be a pretty long drive just to look at a table though, lol.

[wingsfan]

That's a nice offer. And believe it or not, I work in Sterling Heights, right by 18 mile and Mound.