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  #11  
Old 07-28-2005, 01:49 PM
_Z_ _Z_ is offline
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ops: Forgot you asked about pour lines...

You won't see pour lines if you mix the resin parts in the same proportion for both pours, and pour layers within a reasonable time frame. There's two types of resin; one mixes 1:1, and the other adds drops of catylist (the one I used). The less catylist you use, the clearer the mold will be and the more variation you can use between pours- but the longer it will take to cure. Ideally, you use less catylist for each successive pour to avoid cracking. I used 5 drops of catylist for the first pour, and 4 for the second. The mfr. didn't recommend >6 drops/oz. That gave me about 15 minutes of work time after mixing before it started to gel.
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  #12  
Old 07-28-2005, 01:49 PM
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Nice job on the button!!!

Now just don't get any ideas about slabbing chips. That word is taboo over at the CCGTCC club. Just say NO to slabbing chips!!!!

(Slabbing - ie what they do to similar to grading coins and putting them in sealed plastic containers with bar codes, etc)
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  #13  
Old 07-28-2005, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d_p
This is a FANTASTIC idea. I'm going to have to try this as well.

One question... could you have done rough trimming of the rings from the bottom of the can with a Dremel tool and then done your fine sanding/polishing from there?
Belt sander. Faster yet... flatter, too!

Just be careful you don't get it too hot- it'll burn (discolor).
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  #14  
Old 07-28-2005, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chipper57AA
Nice job on the button!!!

Now just don't get any ideas about slabbing chips. That word is taboo over at the CCGTCC club. Just say NO to slabbing chips!!!!
Thanks Chipper, and no worries. I've not slabbed a single coin, and will NEVER slab a chip!
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  #15  
Old 07-29-2005, 03:10 PM
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Nice job and I don't see why the other site don't like the term slab.
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  #16  
Old 07-29-2005, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad604
Nice job and I don't see why the other site don't like the term slab.
Thanks.

I don't think it's the term, so much as the implication. Slabbing artificially raises the value of the item in question, sometimes well above it's actual worth. I see this all the time in numismatics. Some say it's killing the market. I would have to generally tend to agree.
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  #17  
Old 07-29-2005, 04:24 PM
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Thanks for the pics, they look great.
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  #18  
Old 02-02-2007, 11:41 AM
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Re: Chiptalk Cafepress dealer button- slabbed!

That is certainly a killer project. I have a question.

You stated that it took two pours. The first one was the base. then you wetted the dealer button with some acrylic to avoid air bubbles. Then you did the second pour.

My question is: how long did you wait for the first pour before you sat the dealer button in. Did you let it get completely hard and then set it in or did you just let it harden up a bit.

Very interested in trying this one.

Thanks
TC
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Old 02-02-2007, 01:44 PM
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Re: Chiptalk Cafepress dealer button- slabbed!

TC, don't be surprised if you don't get a response, take look at the thread date!

Member _Z_ hasn't posted since Oct 05!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TC Valdez
That is certainly a killer project. I have a question.

You stated that it took two pours. The first one was the base. then you wetted the dealer button with some acrylic to avoid air bubbles. Then you did the second pour.

My question is: how long did you wait for the first pour before you sat the dealer button in. Did you let it get completely hard and then set it in or did you just let it harden up a bit.

Very interested in trying this one.

Thanks
TC
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  #20  
Old 02-02-2007, 04:59 PM
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Re: Chiptalk Cafepress dealer button- slabbed!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TC Valdez
My question is: how long did you wait for the first pour before you sat the dealer button in. Did you let it get completely hard and then set it in or did you just let it harden up a bit.
Sounds to me like he waited 1 day, and by that time the acrylic would be completely hard.
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